Do's and Don'ts to Winterize Your Pet

Winter is coming, and that can mean a lot of things to your pet. It can mean fun in the snow, embarrassingly adorable sweaters, or danger. Along with the cold, pet owners should keep an eye out for ice and salt burn. Here are some Do’s and Don’ts to help guide your way through the winter wonderland.

DO:  Protect your pet from the cold!

If your dog has a short coat, but likes being outside, don’t be afraid to pull a sweater on over them. Cute designs are a plus, but for the less fashion conscious dog there are still options. Most pet stores carry a basic velcro fleece to keep chills off of your furry friend.

DON’T: Go overboard.

Sweaters can help keep dogs warm, but keep in mind that most dogs don’t appreciate being dressed up.  Hats, scarves, and other add-ons should be used for pictures only. Your dog will be less likely to lose them and appreciate not having things hanging off of them during play time.

DO: Protect the paws

The winter is the most dangerous time for your pet’s paws. Ice buildup between the toes can give your dog frostbite before you even realize it. Check your dog’s paws thoroughly during and after playing in the snow. Paw wax such as Mushers can help protect from the cold, as well as salt burn. Salt burn is common and painful to your pet. Be sure to use a pet friendly ice melt and encourage neighbors to do the same. Typically these brands will advertise that they are pet safe right on the front of the package

DON’T: Get too attached to the booties

Dog booties or shoes need to be introduced to the dog in the initial training/puppy stages. If your dog is uncomfortable having things around its feet, these booties are a bad idea. They are as expensive as they are cute, and are easily lost. An inexpensive alternative to dogs with longer paw fur is a combination of infant or child no slip socks and hair ties. Be careful not to attach these too tightly.

DO: Watch your step on walks

Dogs still need to be walked during the winter, but ice is dangerous to both you and your pet. One slip can bring you down and cause you to drop the leash. Consider investing in a hands-free jogging lead to avoid losing your pet (not recommended for hard pulling dogs).

DON’T: Use retractable leashes

Retractable leashes can encourage your dog to pull more than normal, even if it is leash trained. The locking mechanisms can also be too difficult to manage while wearing mittens. When the path is icy, just don’t take the risk.

Check out the video below for more tips for Winter safety on walks!

Video Credit: [Vetsreet.com] (2015, February 24)Tips for safely walking a dog in winter. 

Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ia6G_C1ZaUA

Solving your Pulling Pup Problems

Pulling on walks can be a sign of excitement or just insufficient training. It is a clear sign that the dog is not paying attention to its owner. This behavior issue is not one to be ignored. Even if your dog is small and their pulling isn’t bothering you, it causes the collar to press harder against your dog’s trachea and can cause serious lasting damage.

Harnesses

Owners of small dogs frequently opt out of training and just use a harness. Harnesses take the pressure off of the neck and move it to the chest, where it won’t interfere with the dog’s ability to breathe. This shortcut may work for smaller dogs, but stronger, larger breeds are going to take a little more work. Most harnesses clip to the leash in the back, which can encourage your dog’s pulling. No-pull harnesses can help by clipping in the front and slightly constricting on the chest to help your dog pay more attention. For more information about no-pull harnesses, check out the video below featuring the Easy Walk harness.

Video Credit: [Petsafe] (2013, Sept 3) PetSafe Easy Walk harness fitting and use. Retrived from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7P3GjsnbBgQ

Chain/Choker Collars

Contrast what people believe, chain/choker collars are not a solution. They are a training tool and should not be used without some knowledge. It is important to make sure that the collar is the right size and can just barely be slipped on over the dog’s head. Too much slack takes away the collars ability to give instant correction. There are two very common mistakes that people make when using a choker collar. One is that they have it placed where the regular collar normally sits. Choker collars are more effective and less damaging when they sit higher, as close to the jaw line as possible.

Another common mistake is not keeping enough tension on the line. The tension on the leash when using a choker collar should be tight enough to keep it in place, but not so tight that the collar starts restricting. An easy way to monitor the slack is to use two hands, the dominant hand holding the handle and the other holding the leash closer to your dog. The leash should be crossing your body.  

These rules also apply to using a prong/pinch collar that should only be used by experienced dog owners or by the advice of your dog’s trainer.

Martingale collars

Training your dog is a constant effort. Martingales collars can help keep your dog from pulling without having to return to the chain choker collars. They tighten a bit on the neck, but not as severely as chain/choker collars. These collars should only be used on dogs that have been trained with a choker collar.

Other options

Sometimes leash training your dog is intimidating and harnesses are difficult. One other option for inexperienced dog owners is the Thunderleash. The leash attaches to standard collars, then wraps around the dogs chest and is re-attached to a clip near the collar. When the dog pulls, the Thunderleash tightens, and stops the dog without causing damage. This technique can be done with standard leashes for a temporary solution, as shown below.